Beirona is a quiet stretch of Murdeira with clear bays, rocks, shifting winds and views of Monte Leão. Perfect for a short snorkel, a break between routes, and a moment to watch the island slow down without trying too hard.
Beirona, Murdeira – Sal Island
Beirona, the spot where the sea is in charge and you just go along with it.
The first time I got to Beirona I thought Google Maps was having an existential crisis: it sends you to one point, drops you at another, and you end up staring at a quiet bay where even your thoughts echo. It’s the kind of place where the island turns the volume down without asking.
General description
Beirona isn’t a village, nor a resort, nor some hidden “locals-only” secret. It’s a coastal stretch within Murdeira where the landscape feels more honest than pretty: arid ground, rocks, stubbornly clear water, and the permanent outline of Monte Leão, which supposedly looks like a sleeping lion. If you see it immediately, congratulations — your imagination is stronger than most of ours.
The area is part of the Murdeira Nature Reserve, so don’t expect fancy infrastructure. What you do get are small rewards: reef just metres from the shore, turtles passing by like neighbours, and a calm that only breaks when the wind decides to be the main character.
How to get there
Getting there is easy: about 10 minutes from Espargos and 12–15 minutes from Santa Maria via the main road running north–south. The Murdeira turnoff is clear, and from there you just follow the internal road toward the coast.
Parking is the easiest part. What’s trickier is navigating if you’re relying on maps that still think Murdeira is in beta version. You can also get there by aluguer, though it helps to specify exactly where you want to be dropped off.
What to do
Beirona is perfect for slowing down. No organized activities, no beach bars — here the charm is in the simplicity.
About five metres from shore there’s a small reef ideal for basic snorkelling. The water is often so clear it feels like the fish are working in shifts to keep things interesting.
If the sea is calm, a swim in the bays is quietly wonderful. If the wind picks up — which is common — the show becomes watching the Atlantic crash into the rocks with theatrical enthusiasm.
Many island tours stop here between Buracona and Shark Bay. On your own, thirty minutes to one hour is enough unless you’re captivated by turtles or by the silence.
Practical tips
• Water shoes: the rocks don’t play.
• Serious sunscreen: there’s no shade.
• You may encounter souvenir sellers with items heavier than expected; negotiate if needed.
• Expect 5–8 euros by taxi or aluguer from Santa Maria or Espargos.
• No services: come fully prepared.
Best time to visit
Early morning or late afternoon, when the wind usually calms and the light softens the whole landscape.
In winter the sea can be rougher; in summer it tends to be calmer and snorkelling is more enjoyable. If large tour groups arrive, the bay fills quickly… and empties just as quickly.
Is it worth it?
Beirona doesn’t try to impress you — and that’s its charm. A simple, honest place where the sea greets you according to its mood of the day. If you like unscripted, authentic spots, you’ll feel right at home.
And the “sleeping lion”? If you see it, tell me — I’m still looking.
