Costa da Fragata Natural Reserve is a vast protected area near Santa Maria, with wild beaches and turtle nesting zones. The landscape and silence are striking, but litter and loose control can disappoint. Best for long walks, observation and slow, thoughtful exploration.
When the island runs out of decoration
You leave Santa Maria and, little by little, the landscape gets stripped down to the basics. Fewer hotels, less music, fewer excuses. What appears is a long, arid stretch of coast, open to the Atlantic and the wind, where the only soundtrack is waves.
Welcome to the Costa da Fragata Natural Reserve: a place that can feel breathtaking… and confusing at the same time.
A big protected area that doesn’t feel like a “park”
The Costa da Fragata Natural Reserve is a protected area covering kilometres of coastline on the south-eastern side of Sal. The land is mostly desert-like, with low dunes, volcanic rock, fine-sand stretches and an ocean that’s rarely in calm mode.
Don’t expect clear signage, neat trails or visitor infrastructure. This isn’t a tidy, curated park. It’s an open, raw reserve where protection often feels stronger on paper than on the ground.
It works brilliantly for people who want long walks, space and observation. It doesn’t work for anyone who needs structure or clear boundaries.
Walks, wind and wild coastline life
By day, the reserve is great for wandering without a strict plan, exploring small beaches and watching coastal life: crabs, sea urchins, marine snails and small fish in rocky areas.
Near the desalination plant, birdwatching is a common bonus, and the constant wind explains why some sections attract kitesurfers — though not everyone feels that fits comfortably with the “protected” label.
Turtles and absolute respect
From summer into early autumn, this coast becomes one of Sal’s main loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) nesting areas.
Watching a turtle lay eggs is the kind of experience people don’t forget. But it comes with rules: no independent access. Night visits are done only with authorised guides, in small groups and under strict guidelines.
Nature here doesn’t need an audience. It needs distance.
Wild beauty… with interference
The landscape is powerful: huge beaches, turquoise water and a rare sense of space for Sal. But a recurring issue comes up again and again: litter — especially marine plastics and discarded fishing gear.
There’s also a sense of uneven control in some areas, with 4×4s and buggies sometimes moving off-track, which creates a contradictory feeling in a space officially protected.
High ecological expectations
If you’re expecting a pristine, strictly managed reserve, this can be disappointing. Lack of regular cleaning and inconsistent enforcement clash with the ideal of conservation.
Still, many visitors agree it’s worth seeing even with its flaws, and more than a few suggest bringing a bag and picking up some rubbish during the walk.
Visiting without getting in the way
– Best for long walks, especially morning or late afternoon.
– Bring water, sunscreen and comfortable shoes.
– Don’t leave tracks if you don’t know the area well.
– Turtle watching: only with authorised guides.
– If you can, pick up litter — not required, but it helps.
A place that makes you uncomfortable… and that’s a good sign
The Costa da Fragata Natural Reserve isn’t perfect. And that may be exactly why it matters. It’s a sharp reminder of how fragile the balance is between landscape, tourism and neglect.
It gives you space, silence and beauty — then leaves you with an unspoken question: what do we do with this?
Nature here is still strong. Not infinite.
