Between Espargos and Santa Maria, Murdeira Bay is a serene marine reserve of rare beauty.
Coral, turtles, and views of Monte Leão create a natural, unspoiled landscape — perfect for swimming, snorkeling, or simply letting time drift with the tide.
Murdeira Bay: Where the Sea Turns Down the Volume
If you drive between Espargos and Santa Maria, sooner or later you’ll spot a sea so blue it seems to have invented its own filter. That’s Murdeira Bay — the place locals go when they need to remember they live on an island, not inside a postcard.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Baía da Murdeira is much more than a pretty curve on the coastline. It’s a Marine Nature Reserve, one of the most valuable and protected areas of the archipelago. Here you’ll find the island’s only coral reefs, and its calm waters are home to turtles, colorful fish, and the occasional visitor who feels humbled by so much quiet life.
From the shore, you get a perfect view of Monte Leão, the mountain shaped like a lion resting under the sun — a near-official symbol of Sal. When the sunset paints it orange, it’s easy to see why so many photographers run out of battery here.
HOW TO GET THERE
The bay sits halfway between Espargos and Santa Maria, about 10–12 minutes by car from either. If you don’t have a vehicle, take an aluguer (local minibus) for around 150 escudos — the driver will probably know more routes than Google Maps. The road ends in the small village of Murdeira, a quiet residential area by the sea. From there, you can walk easily to the shore; the landscape itself slows your steps.
WHAT TO DO
If you’re expecting beach bars and umbrellas, think again. Murdeira is made for floating, snorkeling, or simply doing nothing. Snorkeling is the highlight, though results vary: some visitors spot turtles and tropical fish, others just stones and sand — nature doesn’t take reservations. During nesting season, loggerhead turtles come to lay their eggs on these beaches, a show that needs no stage or ticket.
You can also walk to the natural harbor and take a swim facing Monte Leão. If you get hungry, the small pirate ship restaurant nearby is a pleasant surprise — simple dishes, fresh fish, and fair prices.
PRACTICAL TIPS
Bring water, snorkel gear, and patience: there are no shops or rentals in sight. The sea is usually calm, but currents exist — better not to drift too far. Avoid peak sun hours (12 to 3 p.m.) and aim for the afternoon when the light turns golden. If driving, park near the wall of the residential complex; access on foot is easy. And be cautious with “improvised guides” — some charge enthusiasm by the meter.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Every hour of the day has its charm, but sunset is the showstopper. The sun drops behind Monte Leão and the bay turns copper-gold. In winter, waves get stronger and attract surfers; in summer, the water stays calm — perfect for those who like to feel time melt away.
IS IT WORTH A VISIT?
Absolutely — especially if you’re after a place without noise, rush, or pretension. Murdeira Bay doesn’t compete with Santa Maria; it plays another game — the one where nothing much happens, and that’s precisely the beauty. Here, luxury isn’t service; it’s silence.
