In Pedra de Lume, the old salt hangar preserves the island’s industrial soul. Ruins, rust, and wind tell the story of Sal’s salt trade — a place without luxury but full of history, perfect for travelers seeking authenticity.
Old Salt Storage Hangar: Ruins with a Taste of History
Halfway between history and rust, the old salt hangar in Pedra de Lume is the kind of place that looks more like a film set than a tourist attraction. No one maintains it, few understand it, yet everyone stops to look. And that says something.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The so-called Ancien Hangar de stockage de sel isn’t a building with an open door or an explanatory sign. It’s a collection of ruins — the remains of the salt industry that gave the island its name. Among stone walls and iron beams twisted by the wind, you can still feel the echo of the days when salt was white gold.
Since the late 18th century, Pedra de Lume was the production and export hub for Cape Verde’s salt, and this hangar — together with the cableway and the pier — was the machinery that made it possible.
Today, the landscape blends history and decay: a small half-collapsed harbor, corroded structures, and the skeleton of the old cableway that once carried tons of salt from the crater to the sea.
HOW TO GET THERE
The site is right next to the entrance of the Pedra de Lume Salt Pans, about 10 minutes from Espargos and 20 from Santa Maria. The road is straightforward, though the last stretch has that rustic Cape Verdean charm — more bumps than signs. There’s no ticket booth or marker; just follow your eyes toward the rusty port and you’ll find it.
Parking is easy, usually under the shade of a surviving wall.
WHAT TO DO
There’s nothing to “do” here in the classic sense. You come to look, imagine, and breathe history. Walk around the ruins of the port, see the remains of the cableway and the old warehouses where tons of salt were once stored before export. If you enjoy photography, the contrast of rust, salt white, and sea blue is irresistible.
Some visitors mention encountering “spontaneous guides” who offer explanations in exchange for a tip. If you accept their company, do so kindly but carefully — the experience might be interesting… or cost you eight euros to see a turtle that never shows up.
PRACTICAL TIPS
Wear closed shoes: between rocks, nails, and rotten wood, the place isn’t exactly sandal-friendly. Avoid going at night — no lights, no security, and no reason to be there. If you stop by the small bar near the port, you might find a cold drink and, with luck, some local music if the neighbors gather. And whatever you do, don’t climb the structures: some are barely standing.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
The afternoon light is perfect to capture the contrast between ruins and sea. The wind can be strong, but it only adds drama to the scenery. There’s no high season: visitors trickle in occasionally — part of the site’s quiet charm.
IS IT WORTH A VISIT?
That depends on what you’re after. If you expect a restored attraction with guided explanations, then no. But if you enjoy places that tell their story through rust and silence, absolutely. The old salt hangar is an unfiltered time capsule — a reminder that this island existed long before resorts and umbrella cocktails.
