Old harbour turned semi-public corner by Santa Maria’s promenade. Free access, calm water, and traces of history between stones and sea. Perfect for a short swim, local snapshots, and understanding how Cabo Verde balances real life with resort life.
Overview
This used to be where boats loaded salt and dried fish; now you’ve got the bare bones of the old pier, partly swallowed by the Porto Antigo complex. There’s still public access (a tiny cove and sheltered swimming area) that coexists with the hotel’s guarded zones. No signs, no museum, no guided story — just history sitting quietly at sea level.
Set your expectations right: it’s a short but worthwhile stop. A place to watch the sea, cool off where waves can’t reach you, and see a small corner of local life that hasn’t been entirely polished for tourism.
How to Get There
- On foot: about a 5-minute walk from Santa Maria’s main square, on the eastern end of the promenade.
- By aluguer or taxi: both drop you nearby; expect a 2–3 minute stroll.
- By car: street parking close by, though spots disappear faster than a cold beer on the beach.
- Smart entrance: use the side street next to Olhos d’Água;
avoids the hotel gates and lets you slip straight to the water.
Map tip: if Google Maps decides to have an existential crisis, just ask for “Porto Antigo” —
locals will point you straight to the mini-beach, no drama.
What to Do
- Swim or snorkel easy: the harbour wall breaks most waves. Still, watch out for currents and slippery rocks.
- Sun or shade (the rare kind): a few spots of natural shade, treasure them.
- People-watching: families, kids splashing, the occasional tourist wandering in circles —
the scene shifts with tides and moods.
Practical Tips
- Access: free, no schedule. Some areas are private and watched by security — stay on the public side.
- Footwear: rocks are slippery. Flip-flops won’t cut it; bring reef shoes.
- Facilities: no showers or toilets. Hotel bars officially don’t serve outsiders,
though confidence sometimes works wonders. - Shade & water: bring your own — shade is a luxury here.
- Vendors & braiders: common. Be polite, say “no, obrigado,” and everyone moves on.
- Kids asking for money: best not to give; it only fuels the habit. Support small local shops instead.
- Safety: calm area overall. Avoid the pier edges when it’s windy or the tide’s up.
Best Time to Go
- Morning: the sea’s flat as glass and the light’s beautiful.
- Sunset: softer light, cooler air, better photos.
- Weekends: more local families around — authentic vibe guaranteed.
Worth the Stop?
If you’re after a quick stop with calm water and a trace of history, yes. If you’re expecting ancient ruins or a full-service beach club, definitely not. It’s where you can still feel the old port’s ghost and see how tourism half-swallowed, half-preserved what used to be Santa Maria’s working edge.
